How To Clean A Leather Belt
This is a invitee Blog Post by Kevin Luebke
For those with an outdoor or wilderness survival mindset, knowing how to make clean a leather chugalug, pocketknife sheath, leather boots, or any other outdoor leather production is an important skill. Cleaning is merely ane of 5 important, still simple steps in leather intendance to ensure all your gear performs and lasts.
Cleaning your leather goods is just one of five simple yet important steps in ensuring your leather goods perform and concluding.
In this article, I'll detail the v steps you need to know in social club to properly learn how to clean a leather belt and virtually whatever other leather product. I would besides advise downloading my gratuitous Leather Appurtenances Care and Selection Guide by clicking the link below. I created it as a reference for you to proceed on hand and utilise to continue all of your leather products in tip-pinnacle shape. You can download information technology on my personal website here: Leather Goods Care and Selection Guide
I have been involved in leather-working for almost 20 years now, instruction youngsters in my community likewise as making all types of leather goods. Give-and-take gets out in a small town and people bring you all sorts of leather items to "clean" or "prepare," which is a wonderful learning experience. Information technology is also a proficient lesson in what not to do. I was able to restore some of those items and establish others irreparable. I volition share my trials and errors with you so all your leather goods last and office at their all-time!
Subsequently this read, you will non only know how to clean a leather chugalug, only you'll besides know how to clean a leather pocketknife sheath and many other leather products you lot use on a regular basis. In addition, y'all'll have a much amend idea for how to select the best products to care for your leather.
What is Real Leather? What is Best?
When learning how to make clean leather, you have to get-go know what you are dealing with. The basic make-up of existent full- grain leather is a stiff/smooth/relatively shinny outer area of tight "grain" that appears as one smooth surface. This polish, dense grain works into a thicker inner area, which is a twisted mass of larger and larger fibers. Tanners go to this betoken by removing the hair then tan the hide using one of two main methods: vegetable or chrome. tanning.
Veg tan is the age-one-time method of using tannins in tree bark to produce a firm leather that holds its shape to course fit items, like your knife. Chrome tan is a relatively quick procedure that typically produces thinner more flexible leather that usually has the finished color dyed in–call up gloves, numberless, boots, etc. Full grain leather (chrome or veg tan) has the best strength for most applications and is what you should seek out.
Manufacturers do all sorts of nefarious things to materials and still get to pass it off as leather. For difficult-use outdoor leather goods, stay away from the words top grain, genuine, bonded, corrected grain. Always seek out full grain leather.
The v Basic Steps For How to Clean a Leather Belt (or any other outdoor leather product)
Pace 1: ID YOUR LEATHER
The first of 5 steps is identifying the type of leather y'all have in front of y'all, then yous can clean it with the right arroyo. You're looking for one of 3 things:
- A smooth surface and a slight sheen
- An oil cease that changes color when you bend or push information technology around
- Leather that has a suede/velvety/fuzzy look to the finish
Those are the iii main types you lot will come across. There are many more than variations of leather, but as far as intendance goes, this covers well-nigh items.
Leather that'southward smooth with a slight sheen is the best for outdoor gear. It's easier to maintain/status and certainly easier to clean. This is what most difficult-use outdoor belts, boots, sheaths, and holsters are fabricated from. In the case of belts and items that retain shapes like a knife sheath it is typically total grain vegetable tan leather. Boots tin exist made from chrome tan leather or a combination of chrome/veg tan.
Boots tin be made from a variety of leather types while knife sheaths and belts are typically smooth veg tan. These three types, full grain, oil tan and suede each have a different care and conditioning approach.
Step 2: Clean YOUR LEATHER
When the dirt on leather cannot be brushed away with a soft shoe care brush, a damp cloth followed past a dry one works well. With mud, a soft nylon bristle brush and h2o tin can be used. Do not soak the leather. Sparingly utilise the water, and quickly follow with a dry cloth. Pay attention to the stitching besides and remove whatever dirt from that surface area, too. Avoid driving dirt into the leather–effort to elevator it out and brush/whisk or bladder it away. Do not let mud plow into dried mud. This pulls fifty-fifty more oils out of the leather and tin lead to mold .
Oil tan leather is used quite a scrap for boots and the aforementioned cleaning procedure for smooth sheen leather works for information technology. Some oil tan leather has a bit of a nap or suede-like texture, so be conscientious with that and mindful once again later when you go to the conditioning phase. Again, nearly oil tan manufactures accept care "dos and don'ts" you can follow.
Suede, crude out, velvety nubuck, and whatever fuzzy leather needs a different approach to clean and status. The maker has basically flipped the leather inside out or sanded down the all-important dense and potent outer surface, so you lose that natural smooth/slick barrier that cleans and conditions and then well. With suede, you have millions of fuzzy little fibers that will grab onto any dirt or muck you run into. These little fuzzies must stand alpine thru all the corruption and cleaning to keep that look. I do not like suede for true outdoor boots, since information technology is harder to clean, go on make clean, and condition. Salve suede for nicer dress shoes. Countless suede and synthetic hiking boots and even armed forces boots are fabricated, just it is hard to maintain that new look.
With a suede or napped/velvety textured boot, always check with the manufacturer, but the end result is typically the same. I recommend a suede brush of some type followed by a spray conditioner. For care in the field, it is a procedure that'due south hard to improvise.
What most SADDLE SOAP?
Saddle Soap is a common Leather Intendance product. For smooth leathers, saddle lather is indeed both a balmy cleaner and a balmy conditioner. It would exist okay for boots and shoes that see mild use. You want belts, knife sheaths and any structurally ridged leathers to stay that way and saddle soap (with repeated use) could soften them and cause too much flexibility.
The next pace of how to clean a leather belt is one that's rarely covered in whatever instructions I've ever read.
Conditioner, a skillful shoe brush, lint free applicators and polishing cloths are the basic items you need for leather care.
STEP 3: HOW TO "LET YOUR LEATHER DRY"
One time leather is clean you must make sure it is dry. This is where the problems can actually start. Central give-and-take is "permit" leather dry. Don't rush it. Avoid loftier heat, direct heat, speeding things up with oven heat, hot dashboard on a sunny day heat, right by the fire heat… you get the film. These are all things people asked me to set over the years. One time cracked, like Humpty Dumpty, it can't be put back together over again. Slow drying in climate-controlled rooms is best. If you are out in the field, this becomes difficult. And then, just exercise your all-time and avoid whatsoever rapid drying that can cause cracking and permanent harm.
If leather gets saturated, you should be ok if yous have existent leather. Simply let it slowly dry and apply conditioner. As leather dries, brand certain it is in the same course or shape it was in before it got wet: no kinks, bends or folds that were not there before. For sheaths and items that have tighter forms, there is a adventure that memory that may not fully come dorsum. Bonded, genuine, and corrected grain leather are not as structurally sound as full-grain leather is and they could puff up like cheap particle lath piece of furniture and autumn apart.
Belts have a special consideration considering of perspiration. On a hot twenty-four hour period, your belt gets moisture from sweating and might not fully dry by the next solar day. Wetting leather makes it easier to stretch. If this happens repeatedly, your belt volition eventually suspension at the buckle holes or the small of the back. A solution is alternate between 2 belts of good quality total-grain leather to requite them a chance to fully dry.
A real problem for anyone who spends time outdoors. Belts and boots made from poor quality leather or "leather-like" materials will stretch and fail much easier than full grain leather.
Why Condition Your Leather?
In one case your leather is clean and dry out, you're almost at that place! How to clean a leather belt goes hand in paw with how and when to condition those items and what to utilise. Over time, all leather loses the oils that proceed it hydrated and flexible, so a conditioner is vital upkeep for all leather. When to condition depends on the detail, frequency of use, humidity in your surface area/home, and of course exposure to dirt and water.
Learn how to make your own Leather Knife Sheath
Learn how to make the style of leather knife sheath oft seen with high-end custom knives! Kevin walks you lot through, step-by-step, the process of cutting, wet molding, shaping, clamping, gluing, hand stitching, and finishing your custom sheath.
https://world wide web.outdoorcore.com/courses/how-to-make-a-leather-knife-sheath
When to Status Your Leather?
Heavily used items, like boots, need frequent conditioning, while lightly used items (especially those with rigidity) do non, since workout may soften them. A good rule to get past is to status leather "correct before" it looks and feels dry merely not letting it get to that bespeak tin harm it over time. A good identify to first is ane-ii times per yr for seldom used items moving to 'every bit needed' for items that receive hard use. Anytime leather gets dirty or wet, you volition most likely need conditioning. Remember of taking a hot shower after being out in the cold all twenty-four hours. Your pare ends upwards stripped of all the oils and gets cracked and dry out. Aforementioned goes for leather with h2o exposure. With winters in cold regions, the average domicile can accept lower humidity than the Mohave Desert, then be mindful of that.
Selecting A Conditioner
If the maker recommends a specific production, information technology is best to follow that guidance. Our 'smooth with sheen' leather often calls for a wax or paste type. Oil tanned typically requires a liquid oil conditioner and the fuzzy/napped/velvety stuff needs a spray. All of these are important considerations in how to clean a leather belt or whatsoever other leather product you want to continue for a long time.
From my feel, I avoid whatsoever workout product with petroleum, added h2o, or animal fats, such as neatsfoot oil. Using animal fats to status an beast skin seems to make sense, only I have seen over-conditioning and damage with improper utilize. I yet have the same canteen of neatsfoot oil I bought 20 years agone and, equally a leather-worker, I don't use it that much. Most conditioning compounds available advertise as waterproofing. In reality, it's more like water resistance, since it will break down with employ and demand to be reapplied. This is particularly truthful with loftier-use items like boots.
As a apiculturist, what I recommend for the smoothen/sheen leather is a wax/paste type that contains beeswax, which I consider the key ingredient in leather care. Below are three conditioners I recommend and all incorporate some beeswax along with other natural ingredients:
- Skidmore: https://amzn.to/3sPm1ng
- Smiths: https://amzn.to/2R4noRe
- Otter Wax: https://amzn.to/3cM3O4q
Oil tanned leather is primarily plant in boots. Here it's of import to seek out the manufacturer recommended conditioner, which will typically exist an oil-based production. I don't like using a liquid unless it is required. In that location is the potential for the user to over saturate the applicator and the leather goods. When I practice use or recommend them, Otter Wax and Preservation Solutions brands work well. Bickmore No. 4 is a notable conditioner worth mentioning and is very mild and piece of cake to use for lite duty items.
For Suede and anything fuzzy, stick with a manufacturer recommended spray. The central with any spray conditioner for the fuzzy stuff is to protect and provide water resistance while keeping all those little fuzzy fibers or nap from getting smashed downwardly. Some of these are water-based, which means with difficult use yous could be reapplying more than ofttimes. If you have no manufacturer recommendations for suede, nubuck, or rough out leather, so examination and attempt Otter Wax, Fiebings or Bickmore–all carry a spray for this type of leather.
STEP 4: TEST YOUR CONDITIONER
Light colored leather can darken permanently when you condition it. Only how much depends on the leather and the conditioner. Test the conditioner you've selected for your leather belt, especially if you're particular virtually the colour. Some manufacturers advertise their production to non darken leather. However, always test first if that is of business.
For testing, seek out and test in a small inconspicuous area of the particular. Most treated leather will return to its normal shade of color later on about ii hours. If it non, wait up to 2 days to see simply how much of a change takes identify. Chances are it will just be i or ii shades darker. If there is too much change , then you might have to seek out some other production .
Pace five: Use YOUR CONDITIONER
When your leather is clean and dry, its time to status! REMINDER: boots demand to be flexible, so heavier and more than frequent applications of conditioner is ok with heavy use. Use conditioner more than sparingly for belts, knife sheaths, and whatever type of ridged or firm leather goods. A paste-type conditioner for these things will prevent over-softening the leather. If information technology is rigid leather, don't treat in like a ball glove and really work, information technology in there.
With waxes and oils, I like to use either a lambs wool applicator, old wool sock turned inside out, lint gratis cloth, or applicator sponge. Work the conditioner in evenly with a circular move over the entire surface, paying close attention to stitching and edges. Give the edges a little more conditioner than the smooth surface. Edges soak upwardly more conditioner, so proceed them burnished so they don't absorb dirt and water. This is especially important on belts. A key to quality belts, sheaths, and holsters are edges that are rounded, burnished, and smooth–non rough, squared, or fuzzy.
With any wax/oil conditioner, wipe away excess with a dry out lint gratis material and buff the surface to polish information technology. Congratulations you are done! Almost.
Proper Storage
At present that y'all know how to clean a leather belt, it's fourth dimension to store your clean, dry out, and conditioned leather appurtenances. The most important part of this mindset is storing leather in the rooms you live in. Belts, holsters, and sheaths are especially prone to mold since you lot may have transferred sweat, dirt, or grime into the leather.
Avoid storing leather goods in dark closets, clammy basements and areas of the home that do not have climate command. Rooms with dry rut source, similar a wood stove, must be avoided. Storing in an airtight container or plastic tote can also cause mold issues. I go along holsters, sheaths, and other leather goods in wicker baskets on a shelf in the family room. It is an blusterous and dominicus-filled room (no wood stove) where I can keep an eye on the shape everything is in. My belts get hung past the buckle on the forepart of my closet door and any hard-utilize boots are right at that place inside the door. I have had a few belts and 1 knife sheath grow mold on me over the years, and it's always due to improper storage and cleaning on my part.
Decision-How to Clean a Leather Belt (and other leather appurtenances)
Maintaining leather goods is benign to everyone and even more critical out in the field or in a survival situation. Now you know how to clean a leather belt the proper way. Remember that for outdoors, survival, and wilderness use always seek out full-grain leather as the well-nigh durable selection. Hopefully, the mantra of ID, Clean, Dry, Test and Utilize is easy to follow and you are amend prepared for what life throws at you and all your leather goods!
Leather care does not accept to be complicated. ID-smoothen-oil-fuzzy, is information technology Clean and Dry out? Examination and Employ!
This commodity is by Kevin Luebke from https://www.booneslickleather.com/. Kevin has had a lifelong interest in the outdoors. His hobbies include hiking, canoeing, beekeeping and leatherwork. He has drawn great inspiration from the life and mindset of Daniel Boone, growing up non far from his final homestead in Missouri. Kevin has been making his own belts, knives, knife sheaths and other leather gear for over a decade. He has also served every bit a volunteer instructor teaching leather work to kids and young adults in his community.
Source: https://willowhavenoutdoor.com/how-to-clean-a-leather-belt/
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